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Some projects take a weekend. Some take a summer. And some take… a little over five years. Today I’m thrilled to make two announcements at once: OpenSprinkler Firmware 2.2.1(5) is officially available, and the Sensor Expander — after a month of pre-orders — is officially shipping.

As detailed in our previous New Product Alert post, the Sensor Expander is an add-on for OpenSprinkler v3 that provides 16 channels of analog sensor input. You can plug in a variety of external sensors, such as soil-moisture, temperature, light, water-level — you name it. This allows OpenSprinkler to read, display, and log these sensors, and use them to automatically adjust programmed water times based on real-world conditions. This opens the door to more advanced irrigation applications in which watering decisions are guided by precise environmental measurements rather than simple on-or-off sensor signals.


The Backstory

What makes this release especially meaningful to me is the long journey it took to get here.

The idea for an analog sensor board based on ADS1115 goes back more than five years. You see, one long-standing limitation of OpenSprinkler has been its inability to read analog sensors. While its built-in digital sensor ports can detect binary signals (e.g. HIGH or LOW, open or closed), many environmental sensors produce a continuously varying voltage—those analog signals are essential for applications that need to measure how much moisture, light, temperature, or water is present, rather than simply whether a threshold has been crossed.

In late 2020, an idea occurred to me: OpenSprinkler’s expander port uses I²C, and many analog-to-digital converter (ADC) chips also communicate over I²C. One of the most popular choices in the maker community is the ADS1115. An expander built around that chip could give OpenSprinkler analog-input capability while still allowing Zone Expanders to share the same port.

In February 2021, I built an early prototype and demonstrated that the concept was feasible. That was in the early days of the pandemic, and I had to deal with the sudden onset of several personal issues, so unfortunately the progress on the project stalled.

Then something wonderful happened: our German distributor, Stefan Schmaltz, took my prototype and continued developing the idea. He designed his own version, implemented firmware support for it, and has sold it for the past several years as the Analog Sensor Board, or ASB. Stefan’s design repurposes the existing Zone Expander enclosure. That enclosure works nicely, but it has room for only 16 terminal ports. Including the required +5V, 3.3V, and ground terminals, the board is limited to 8 ADC input channels. Kudos to Stefan for keeping the project alive, turning the original concept into a real product, and demonstrating that there is genuine demand for analog sensor support.


From Prototype to Sensor Expander

Meanwhile, I continued sketching ideas, albeit slowly, for a more refined version. Instead of repurposing the existing Zone Expander enclosure, I envisioned a new board with its own dedicated 3D printed enclosure, and enough space for 16 ADC channels—the maximum supported by the available I²C address configurations of the ADS1115.

At the same time, I had been thinking about another recurring customer request: support for a 2-wire irrigation system in which multiple zones share the same pair of wires and are controlled through encoded signals. Such a system can greatly reduce the amount of copper wiring required for installations with many zones. With that future application in mind, I added a 1-Wire master chip to the board. It is intended to support future experimentation with 2-wire-style encoder and decoder systems, while also making it possible to interface with standard 1-Wire sensors such as the popular DS18B20 temperature sensor.

After several rounds of revisions, the hardware finally came together last year. Along the way it also went through several name changes. At first, I called it the Analog and 1-Wire Extension Board. I also considered the abbreviation OWA, for “1-Wire and Analog.” Neither name was particularly attractive or easy to understand.

Eventually—with a little help from generative AI—the obvious name emerged: Sensor Expander, a natural counterpart to the existing Zone Expander.


The Software Challenge

Finalizing the hardware was only half the story. Supporting an entirely new class of configurable, loggable, and watering-adjusting sensors required substantial changes to both the firmware and the user interface. It turned out to be a significant usability-design challenge: users needed a way to configure different sensor types, understand their readings, view historical logs, and define how each sensor should affect watering.

The software work began during the summer of last year, kick-started by my student, Andrew Friedman. Our original plan was to integrate Stefan’s OpenSprinkler ASB firmware and interface directly into the official OpenSprinkler repositories. After further consideration, we decided instead to draw on the concepts and lessons from his implementation while rewriting the firmware and user interface from scratch, to fit more naturally into the official OpenSprinkler framework.

As the summer ended, progress stalled once again while we turned our attention to several more urgent priorities: launching OpenSprinkler v3.4, in both AC and DC versions, releasing OpenGarage 2.3+, and navigating continuing supply-chain difficulties.

Then, earlier this year, we got our momentum going again—helped along in no small part by the recent leaps in generative AI and agentic coding tools, which turned many slow, repetitive firmware, interface, testing, and documentation tasks into something we could complete much more efficiently. And finish we did! During the past month, all of the final pieces came together: the Sensor Expander circuit, its dedicated 3D-printed enclosure and acrylic front cover, Firmware 2.2.1(5), the updated app/user interface, and a completely refreshed set of manuals.

From the first idea to the finished product, the journey took more than five years. It is both a genuine relief and a real thrill to finally see it cross the finish line.


What Else is New in Firmware 2.2.1(5)?

While support for the Sensor Expander is its primary addition, Firmware 2.2.1(5) also includes several other important features, performance improvements, and bug fixes.

  • Support for Up to Four Master Zones, with independent on/off timing and per-zone control over Master selection. One of OpenSprinkler’s distinguishing features has always been that Master zones are defined in software. Most sprinkler controllers provide a single dedicated Master Valve (MV) terminal. OpenSprinkler instead allows any zone to be designated as a Master. The benefit of that design is especially clear with this update: you are not restricted to one fixed Master terminal, and different zones can activate different Master valves or pumps as needed.
  • Two Additional Built-In Sensor Ports. OpenSprinkler v3.4 added the SN3 and SN4 ports, bringing the total number of built-in sensor ports to four. Firmware 2.2.1(5) enables these two additional ports, each of which can be configured independently as a rain sensor, soil-moisture sensor, or program switch.
  • Longer Watering Duration. While programmed water durations are still limited to 18 hours, after scaling by weather and sensor adjustments, the resulting runtime is allowed to exceed this limit, up to the firmware’s 7-day bound.
  • Updated Documentation: The documentation has been substantially refreshed and expanded. New and updated resources include the firmware User Manual, API doc, and dedicated user manuals for the Sensor Expander and Zone Expander respectively.
  • Performance, Reliability, and Bug Fixes. This firmware includes numerous performance and reliability improvements (e.g. more efficient memory allocation, reduced fragmentation, improved OTF library and streaming server output) as well as bug fixes (e.g. out-of-bound memory access involving parallel groups, repeated Run-Once program attribution, a potential station runtime overflow when adjustment exceeds 100%).

Firmware Update: Because this firmware is a build-number update, upgrading from any 2.2.1 (e.g. 2.2.1(4)) to 2.2.1(5) will preserve your existing settings, programs, and logs. No factory reset is needed. Regardless, we always recommend exporting a copy of your current configurations before updating, just in case a factory reset becomes necessary.

End of Support for OpenSprinkler v2.3: One important change is that Firmware 2.2.1(5) no longer supports OpenSprinkler v2.3 (the legacy AVR-based hardware model that was discontinued 10 years ago). Going forward, official firmware releases will continue to support OpenSprinkler v3 (v3.0-v3.4) as well as OSPI/Linux. For OpenSprinkler v2.3 users, Firmware 2.2.1(4) is the final supported firmware.


Where to Get Everything?

Finally, a big thank-you to Stefan Schmaltz and Andrew Friedman, whose work helped pioneer and advance this project.

Comments and feedback are always welcome.


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A long-requested feature for OpenSprinkler is the ability to read analog sensors, including temperature, soil moisture, water level, light, and more. While OpenSprinkler’s built-in sensor ports can read binary (i.e., HIGH or LOW) signals—primarily from dry-contact switches like rain and flow sensors—it has lacked the ability to read analog sensors that produce continuous voltage signals. Analog sensors are critical for advanced irrigation applications, where users rely on precise environmental data to fine-tune their watering times.

Introducing the OpenSprinkler Sensor Expander—our upcoming product that provides 16 channels of analog sensor inputs, allowing your OpenSprinkler to interface with a wide variety of external sensors and automatically adjust your programmed water times based on real-world conditions. Below are two sneak peek photos of this new expander.


Main Features:

  • 16 Analog Sensor Inputs: Powered by four ADS1115 Analog-to-Digital Converters (ADCs), providing a total of 16 independent high-precision analog sensor inputs.
  • Dual Voltage Options: Selectable 5V and 3.3V to support a wide range of sensors.
  • Easy Expansion: Plugs directly into OpenSprinkler’s Zone Expander connector using the same 2×5 ribbon cable interface. It can be used standalone with the main controller or inserted at any point in an existing Zone Expander chain.
  • Hardware 1-Wire Master: Includes an on-board 1-Wire Master controller to enable future support for 1-Wire sensors, such as the DS18B20 temperature sensor (firmware support coming soon).

Below is an illustration of the Sensor Expander and how it connects to the OpenSprinkler main controller and (optionally) your Zone Expanders.


Firmware Support

We are actively working on finalizing OpenSprinkler firmware 2.2.1(5), which will be the first release to support the Sensor Expander. Below are several screenshots showing the new firmware user interface in action. We are currently accepting pre-orders, with a targeted shipping date of late-July 2026.


Edit Sensors Page:

The Sensor configuration interface lets you create a new sensor or edit an existing sensor by providing a custom name, sampling interval (e.g., every 15 minutes), physical unit, min/max clamping values, and sensor type. Currently supported sensor types include:

  • ADS1115: For sensors connected to the expander’s analog inputs. Includes three sub-types:
    • Generic Linear: Define custom linear parameters (scaling and offset) that map raw ADC voltage to sensor value.
    • Baked-in Types: Pre-configured for known sensors (e.g. SMT50 and VH400), with scaling and offset parameters taken directly from the sensor datasheets.
    • Piecewise Linear: The most flexible type, supporting non-linear mapping with up to 8 sample points.
  • Aggregate Sensors: Combine up to 8 “child” sensors and aggregate their data using operations like Average, Min, Max, Median. This is useful for example, when you need to average or denoise readings from multiple soil moisture sensors. Aggregate sensors can themselves be children of other aggregate sensors, allowing flexible hierarchies.
  • On-Board Digital Sensors: Allows you to programmatically link the controller’s internal digital sensors (e.g., rain, soil) to the new Sensor interface. Normally, on-board sensors affect watering on a per-zone basis (via each zone’s ‘Ignore Sensor’ flag). By routing them through the Sensor interface, you can use them in program-level adjustments.
  • System Internal Sensors: Monitor metrics like available Heap size and Flash size. Combined with logging, this lets you track the microcontroller’s resource usageover time.

Note: Firmware 2.2.1(5) supports up to 64 sensors total, each with configurable parameters such as logging and the option to display on the home page, as shown below.


Sensor Logs Page:

The Sensor Logs page displays logged data from all active sensors that have ‘Logging’ flag enabled. You can select different time windows to zoom into specific periods, download the logs as .csv files for external analysis, or delete the logs of individual sensor. A “Show Inactive” checkbox lets you view logs from disabled or previously deleted sensors.


Sensor Adjustments in Edit Programs Page:

The Edit Programs page now includes a new ‘Sensor Adjustment‘ section. It lets you define how the program’s water times should be modified based on the value of a selected sensor. For example, reducing watering when soil moisture is high, or increasing it when temperature is warm. You can use any sensor as input, including an Aggregate Sensor that combines readings from multiple sources.

In this interface, you can select a sensor and configure a custom Adjustment Curve using up to 8 sample points, defining how sensor readings translate into watering percentages. The adjustment curve is visualized in real-time, with the current sensor value shown as a green dotted line for reference.

Sensor Adjustment works alongside the existing Weather Adjustment feature. The program’s final water time is multiplied by both the sensor-based percentage and the weather-based ‘watering level’.


Other Firmware Features:

Beyond Sensor Expander support, firmware 2.2.1(5) brings several additional enhancements, including support for up to 4 Master Zones (previously 2), and up to 4 on-board digital sensors on hardware v3.4 (previously 2).


FAQ:

Q: What are some example use cases for the Sensor Expander?
A: The Sensor Expander is particularly useful when you want to modify watering times based on real-world sensor readings — for example, reducing watering when soil moisture is high, adjusting for temperature and evaporation, accounting for ambient light levels, or stopping irrigation when a water tank runs low.

Q: Which OpenSprinkler hardware is compatible with the Sensor Expander?
A: The OpenSprinkler v3 family (v3.0 through 3.4) is compatible. The Sensor Expander uses the same 2×5 ribbon cable connector as the v3 Zone Expanders.

Note that OpenSprinkler v2.3 and OpenSprinkler Pi (OSPi) are NOT compatible with the Sensor Expander. However, recent versions of OSPi (v1.5 and v2.0) feature two on-board ADS1115 chips, providing 8 channels of analog inputs out of the box when updated to firmware 2.2.1(5).

Q: When will the Sensor Expander be ready to ship?
A: We are taking pre-orders now! Shipping is expected to begin in late-July 2026.

Q: What types of sensors are supported?
A: Most analog sensors that operate on 3.3V or 5V logic are supported. Popular examples include the Truebner SMT50, SMT100, Vegetronix VH400, and many resistive and capacitive moisture sensors. The Generic Linear and Piecewise Linear sensor types provide flexibility to support virtually any analog sensor by configuring custom mapping parameters.

Q: What’s the size and weight of the Sensor Expander?
A: The Sensor Expander measures 80mm × 65mm × 30mm (3.15in × 2.56in × 1.18in) and weighs 75g (2.65oz).

Q: If I use the Sensor Expander, can I still use Zone Expanders?
A: Absolutely! The Sensor Expander works alongside Zone Expanders. They both utilize the same I2C communication bus, meaning multiple devices can be connected on the same chain. You can have one Sensor Expander plus multiple (up to 4) Zone Expanders, in any order along the chain.

Q: Can I daisy-chain two Sensor Expanders to get 32 analog inputs?
A: Unfortunately, no. Each main controller can only support one Sensor Expander. The ADS1115 chip allows only 4 unique I²C addresses, and our Sensor Expander already uses all four, so there is no capacity for any additional. If you require more than 16 analog inputs, you will need to add a second OpenSprinkler main controller with its own Sensor Expander.

Q: Can I connect digital sensors (e.g., rain sensor, flow sensor) to the Sensor Expander?
A: While switch-type sensors (like rain and flow) can technically be connected to the expander, we highly recommend using the main controller’s dedicated on-board digital sensor inputs instead. The Sensor Expander inputs have heavy low-pass filtering and slow sampling rates, optimized for analog measurements rather than fast digital signals.

Flow sensors should NOT be connected to the Sensor Expander. The combination of slow sampling and heavy filtering will cause missed pulses, making accurate flow measurement impossible. Connect flow sensors to the main controller’s on-board sensor inputs.

Q: Can I use custom sensors not in the pre-defined list?
A: Yes! The Generic Linear sensor type lets you configure custom linear mapping (scaling and offset) for any analog sensor. For sensors with non-linear response curves, the Piecewise Linear sensor type supports up to 8 sample points for arbitrary mapping. Your sensor’s datasheet generally provides the formula. Alternatively, an empirical approach is to measure your sensor’s output voltages at known reference values, and use the collected voltage-value pairs to define the Piecewise Linear curve.

Q: What’s the 1-Wire Master for?
A: The Sensor Expander includes an on-board 1-Wire master controller, capable of processing the 1-Wire communication protocol. But firmware support for 1-Wire sensors (such as the DS18B20 temperature sensor) is not yet implemented. We plan to add this in a future firmware update.


Ready to add intelligent sensor-based irrigation to your OpenSprinkler? Pre-order the Sensor Expander now and be among the first to receive it in late-July 2026!

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A common question we receive from users is: “How do I use OpenSprinkler to switch a water pump, a heater, a fan, or similar mains-powered devices?” Here are the top 5 ways to bridge the gap between OpenSprinkler and your high-voltage equipment, ranging from “Zero Wiring” to “Zero Software Configuration“.


1. WiFi Smart Plugs

  • Best For: Ease of use, zero wiring, and total safety.
  • Approx. Cost: ~$20

This is rapidly becoming the most popular method because it requires zero physical wiring between the controller and the pump. You can have your OpenSprinkler in the garage and control a pump in a greenhouse 50 feet away.

How does it work: WiFi power sockets like the Shelly Plug US support a well-documented HTTP API, which allows you to send commands over WiFi to switch the socket on or off. Crucially, they allow for local IP-based control without relying on a cloud server—a perfect solution for privacy-focused users.

OpenSprinkler features a station type called “HTTP Station“, which sends user-defined HTTP commands when a zone opens or closes. By leveraging the smart plug’s API, zone actions transfer directly to the power plug.

Shelly US Plug Gen 4
HTTP Station Config

How to set it up:

  1. Configure your WiFi plug to connect to your router and obtain its IP address.
  2. In OpenSprinkler, edit a zone and set its Station Type to HTTP.
  3. Enter the plug’s IP address and Port in the Server Name and Port fields.
  4. Configure the HTTP commands. Using the Shelly US plug as an example:
    • On command: rpc/Switch.Set?id=0&on=true
    • Off command: rpc/Switch.Set?id=0&on=false
  5. Test the zone to verify the plug responds. (Note: If you use a different brand, check its API documentation for the correct command path).

Pros:

  • Galvanic Isolation: Complete air-gap isolation. No risk of messing with high-voltage wires.
  • Expandability: Easy to expand to multiple plugs / pumps. You aren’t limited by the physical ports on your OpenSprinkler unit.
  • Power Monitoring: Many plugs include power consumption monitoring.

Cons:

  • Not all WiFi plugs support HTTP API or local IP-based control.
  • Relies on your WiFi router (if WiFi is down, the pump won’t turn on).
  • Requires initial WiFi configuration on the plug.

2. Wireless but No WiFi: RFToy and RF Sockets

  • Best For: Long-range control where WiFi is weak.
  • Approx. Cost: ~$40 (RFToy + Sockets)

RF Power Sockets work on the 433MHz or 315MHz bands (unlike the 2.4GHz used by WiFi) and typically come with a dedicated remote. With an RFToy, you can decode the remote’s signal and replicate it using OpenSprinkler. OpenSprinkler’s ‘RF Station’ feature is designed exactly for this. You paste the code that RFToy intercepted from the remote, allowing the zone to toggle the socket.

RF power socket with remote
OpenSprinkler RF Station Config

Pros:

  • Range: RF signals often penetrate walls and floors far better than WiFi.
  • Isolation: Complete air-gap isolation. No wiring required.
  • Cost: RF sockets are cheaper per unit than WiFi plugs, making expansion more affordable.

Cons:

  • Requires purchasing an extra device (RFToy)
  • Usually one-way communication (no feedback signal to confirm the plug actually turned on).

3. The Safe Wired Way: IoT Relay

  • Best For: Users who want a reliable wired-only connection without messing with mains voltage.
  • Approx. Cost: ~$40

If you prefer the reliability of a wired connection but are uncomfortable stripping 110V wires, the IoT Relay is great. It looks like a power strip but features a green low-voltage terminal block on the side.

How to set it up:

  1. Run two wires from OpenSprinkler (COM and a Station Port) to the green connector on the IoT Relay. It works with both AC-powered and DC-powered OpenSprinkler units.
  2. Plug your pump into the “Normally OFF” outlet.
  3. When the station activates, the outlet turns on.

Pros:

  • Zero Software Configuration: No WiFi configuration to manage.
  • Plug-and-Play: UL-listed and fully enclosed. Safe to use.
  • Reliable: It’s a hardwired connection, so it works even if your WiFi goes down.

Cons:

  • Current limit: Limited to ~12 Amps, which may not meet your pump’s specs.
  • Availability may be limited as there is only one manufacturer.
  • Expanding Cost is High if you need to switch multiple pumps.

4. The DIY Way: 24VAC Relay / Solid State Relay (SSR)

This is the classic “old school” approach. You buy a standard relay with a 24VAC Coil (for AC-powered OpenSprinkler only; or, if using a DC-powered OpenSprinkler, get a DC Solid State Relay). You wire the coil to the OpenSprinkler just like a sprinkler valve, and wire your pump through the relay’s switch contacts.

Pros:

  • Lowest Cost: The cheapest option by far.
  • Reliable: Hardwired connection works even if WiFi fails.

Cons:

  • Safety Hazard: Requires proper enclosure and handling of exposed mains voltage.
  • Wiring Required: You need to handle both low and high voltage wiring.

5. The Heavy Duty Option: Pump Start Relay

  • Best For: Large (1HP+), high power (>1500W), or 3-phase pumps
  • Approx. Cost: ~$50–$80

If you are running a massive well pump or a booster pump for a large lawn, small relays will weld shut due to the “inductive kickback” of the motor. You need a dedicated Pump Start Relay (from brands like Orbit, Hunter, or Rain Bird). These are essentially industrial-grade versions of Option 4, housed in a NEMA-rated outdoor box.

Pros:

  • Robust: Built to handle the massive in-rush current of large pumps.
  • Code Compliant: Safe for permanent outdoor installation.

Cons:

  • Most expensive option.
  • Requires professional hardwiring.
  • Expansion cost is very high.

Summary & Comparison

MethodBest ForWiring EffortSoftware ConfigIsolationCostExpansion Cost (unit)
Shelly / WiFi PlugEase of useNone (Wireless)Medium (WiFi+HTTP setup)Excellent (Air Gap)~$20Medium (~$20)
RFToy+SocketRangeNone (Wireless)Low (RF setup)Excellent (Air Gap)~$40Low (<$10)
IoT RelayWired SafetyLowNoneGood (Internal)~$40High (~$40)
24VAC Relay / SSRLow Cost DIYHigh (Mains Voltage)NoneGood (Coil)~$5Low (~$5)
Pump Start RelayHeavy DutyMediumNoneGood (Coil)> $40High (>$40)

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If you have recently shopped for a new Chamberlain or LiftMaster garage door opener, you might have noticed a new term: Security+ 3.0. While “new and improved” usually sounds good, this latest update has thrown a wrench into the smart home community. Here is a breakdown of what is going on, why your existing gadgets might not work, and how we can help you get OpenGarage running on these new units.

What is Security+ 3.0?

Released in November 2025, Security+ 3.0 is the latest encryption protocol from Chamberlain Group (which owns Chamberlain, LiftMaster, and Craftsman).

  • How to spot it: These openers feature a White Learn Button (previous generations used Yellow, Purple, or Red/Orange). Some example models are: Chamberlain D1000, LiftMaster 2220L.
  • The Big Change: Unlike previous versions that communicated via wired data lines, Security+ 3.0 moves accessory communication to encrypted Bluetooth Low Energy (BLE). The wall button wires now provide only power, with no data signal to tap into.
  • The remote and wall button that come with these systems look like the images below.

The Problem: The “Closed” Ecosystem

Because the new protocol relies on encrypted wireless communication, no third-party gadgets currently support it natively. RatGDO, Konnected, Tailwind, you name it, none supports it.

  • Devices that worked on Security+ 2.0 (like RATGDO) generally cannot control these new units directly.
  • Chamberlain has aggressively moved toward a closed “myQ” ecosystem, locking out local control integration in favor of their cloud subscription model.
  • The Bottom Line: It is unlikely that native third-party support will arrive anytime soon.

The Solution: The “Sacrifice Remote” Method

If you have a Security+ 3.0 opener and want to use OpenGarage (or any third-party/open-source controller), there is a reliable workaround. It is the same trick we used for Security+ 2.0 before our native support arrived: Switching the button on a dedicated remote.

Instead of wiring OpenGarage to the motor unit directly, you wire it to a spare remote or door button that is paired to your door.

  1. The Concept: You solder two wires to the button contacts inside a spare remote. We have a guide on how to do so.
  2. The Connection: Connect those wires to the OpenGarage relay terminals.
  3. The Result: When OpenGarage “clicks,” it electrically simulates a button press on the remote. The remote then sends the encrypted Security+ 3.0 signal wirelessly to open the door.

This bypasses the new encryption entirely by using Chamberlain’s own hardware to do the talking.

Configuration: When using this approach, you can either use the OpenGarage Classic Version (v2.2), or the newer v2.3+ with its ‘Security+ Version’ option set to ‘None’.

Limitations. The ‘sacrifice remote’ approach is a one-way communication. OpenGarage can send commands to trigger door actions, but it will not receive feedback or status updates from the remote.

  • OpenGarage’s built-in ultrasonic distance sensor will still detect and report door status (open, closed, or in-between), so you’ll still have door position monitoring.
  • However, you will lose the ability to sense and control the garage light, as that requires two-way communication.

For most users, the ultrasonic sensor provides all the essential functionality needed for monitoring and controlling the door itself.


Free Soldering Service

We know soldering tiny wires onto a circuit board isn’t for everyone. We are happy to offer free soldering service for OpenGarage customers.

Here is how it works:

  1. Send us your remote along with a prepaid return shipping label
  2. We’ll solder the wires to the button contacts
  3. We’ll send it back ready to connect to your OpenGarage

Save on Shipping: To avoid paying for return postage, you can mail your remote to us before placing your OpenGarage order. Simply include a note inside the box letting us know it is for an upcoming purchase; or send us a support ticket indicating you will be mailing us a remote and hold on to your existing order. We will then ship the soldered remote back to you in the same package as your order, so no return label is required.

This ‘hardware bridge’ is currently the most feasible way to keep using OpenGarage with the latest Security+ 3.0 GDOs.


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Introduction

More than a decade ago, I published a blog post titled Understanding 24 VAC Sprinkler Valves. In that post, I took a close look at the sprinkler solenoid’s inrush vs. holding currents under 24 VAC, performed theoretical analysis and actual measurements, and explained the difference in the solenoid’s electrical behavior under AC vs. DC. While 24 VAC is a fairly old technology, it is still the standard for landscaping and irrigation projects today. These solenoid valves are cheap, robust, and widely available in home improvement stores.

24VAC Solenoid
Sprinkler Valve

In commercial sprinkler controllers, the most common way to switch these solenoids is by using triacs. Over the years, I’ve received many questions about triacs in sprinkler controller designs. So in this post, I’ll take an in-depth look at how to use a triac to switch sprinkler solenoids, interface it directly with a microcontroller (MCU) such as ESP8266, explain the two common power architectures used in real products, and discuss the choice of gate current-limiting resistors.


Triac Basics

You may already be familiar with transistors, but what is a triac? It is a 3-terminal semiconductor component, much like a BJT transistor or MOSFET, but primarily used to switch AC current rather than DC. With a standard NPN transistor, current flowing into the base-emitter junction “switches on” the transistor, allowing current to flow from the collector to the emitter. When the base current stops, the transistor switches off.

MAC97
BT136
Z0103MN

A triac’s three terminals are named Gate, Main Terminal 1 (MT1), and Main Terminal 2 (MT2). These are analogous to Base, Emitter, and Collector of a transistor. Similarly, current flowing between the Gate and MT1 can turn it on, allowing current to flow between MT2 and MT1. However, there are key differences:

  1. Bidirectional Conduction: When on, current can flow between MT2 and MT1 in either direction. This makes the Triac suitable for switching AC load. In contrast, BJTs transistors conduct current in one direction only.
  2. Bidirectional Gate Triggering: Unlike a transistor, a triac can be triggered not only by current flowing into the Gate, but also by current flowing out of the Gate. In other words, the gate current itself can be bidirectional. This leads to different operating Quadrants depending on signal polarity (see below).
  3. Latching Behavior: When the Gate current is removed, a triac remains ON as long as the current flowing between MT2 and MT1 exceeds a minimum threshold called the holding current. When used with AC, the triac naturally turns off near each zero crossing when the load current falls below this threshold. This also explains why if you try to use a triac to switch DC current, it will only turn on but won’t be able to turn off unless you unplug the power.

The Four Quadrants

Because a triac controls AC power that swings positive and negative, and the Gate can be triggered by either positive or negative current, there are four distinct operating modes, or Quadrants. These are defined by the polarity of MT2 and the Gate, both measured relative to MT1.

  • Quadrant 1 (Q1): Gate Positive (+), MT2 Positive (+)
  • Quadrant 2 (Q2): Gate Negative (-), MT2 Positive (+) 
  • Quadrant 3 (Q3): Gate Negative (-), MT2 Negative (-)
  • Quadrant 4 (Q4): Gate Positive (+), MT2 Negative (-)


Why does this matter? While a triac is a bidirectional switch, it is not perfectly symmetrical on the inside. The silicon structure behaves differently in each quadrant, which means the Gate Trigger Current IGT (the current required to turn the triac on) varies by quadrant:

  • Q1, Q2, and Q3 are the most sensitive: IGT is the lowest in these quadrants.
  • Q4 is the least sensitive, often requiring 2-3x more trigger current than Q1.

Some Example Triacs:

  • MAC97 is a very low-cost, “sensitive-gate” triac commonly used in sprinkler controller circuits. Its IGT in Q1-Q3 is 3-5mA; and in Q4 is 7-10mA (some datasheets omit Q4).
  • BT136 is a higher-power triac. Its IGT in Q1-Q3 is 10mA max, and in Q4 is 25mA.

This matters greatly when driving a triac directly from a MCU’s GPIO pin. Some GPIOs may not source enough current to reliably trigger Q4. Some “High Commutation” (Snubberless) triacs do not operate in Q4 at all. This specific limitation drives the design decisions for the power architecture, as we will see next.


Circuit Design Assumptions

Before moving on, let me state a few assumptions to guide the design choices:

  1. Single Power Supply: The same 24 VAC transformer powers both the solenoid valves and the logic circuits. This assumption is fairly obvious as it’s too cumbersome to require two separate power supplies.
  2. Direct Triac Control from GPIO: As a sprinkler controller can have many zones, to minimize cost, we drive a triac directly by a MCU pin. Alternatives exist—relays, solid-state relays, opto-isolated drivers—but they are bulky, more expensive, some involving moving parts, and unnecessary in a single-supply design where true galvanic isolation does not exist anyway.
  3. Half-Wave Rectification: We use a single diode to convert 24 VAC to DC for the logic. This choice is not primarily about cost—it is essential to make a single-supply triac design work. Specifically, half-wave rectification allows the MCU ground and one side of the AC waveform to share a common reference. Full-wave rectifiers, in contrast, create a “virtual ground” that would short-circuit the triac drive path in this topology.
  4. Continuous Gate Drive: We will hold the gate signal active for the entire duration of the “ON” state, rather than pulsing it at zero-crossings like in classic triac circuits. This simplifies the circuit design. While it slightly increases power consumption, the added dissipation is negligible compared to the solenoid current.

Power Architecture for 24 VAC Sprinkler Controllers

Deriving DC from 24 VAC

The first step is converting 24 VAC into low-voltage DC (5V or 3.3V) to power the MCU and peripherals. This is done using a half-wave rectifier (single diode) and a bulk capacitor, followed by a step-down voltage regulator.

Linear Regulator. In older, non-smart controllers, the step-down regulator is often linear (e.g., a discrete zener-based regulator or a 78xx/79xx chip). This is feasible only if the MCU’s current draw is small. You see, a 24 VAC transformer, under light load, can output an unregulated voltage as high as 30 VAC RMS. This corresponds to a peak voltage of 30*1.414 = 42.4V, which is dangerously high. In fact, if you touch the two wires of the transformer, your fingers may get a tingling sensation!

For a small MCU drawing 10mA, dropping 42.4V to 3.3V dissipates about (42.4V-3.3V)*0.01A = 0.391 W. Not too bad with a decent heat sink. This is why linear regulators are common in legacy controllers.

Switching Regulator. Modern, smart controllers typically have a WiFi or Ethernet chip that can easily draw at least 100mA. This would push the power dissipation to nearly 4W – impractical for a linear regulator. For this reason, modern smart controllers all use switching regulators (e.g., LM2574 or LM2596-class chips) to efficiently step down high voltage without excessive heat. The old-school MC34063 can also be used, though its low switching frequency may cause audible noise under light load.


To directly interfacing a MCU with the triac, there are two topology choices.

Design Choice A: MT1 Tied to the Positive Rail

If you reverse-engineer a legacy non-smart controller (e.g., Orbit 28964), you will typically find:

  1. A negative voltage regulator (e.g., via a zener-based circuit or a 7905 chip).
  2. The triac’s MT1 is tied to the positive rail (MCU’s VCC).
  3. Active LOW Logic: The MCU pulls the gate LOW to turn it on. This is similar to how a PNP transistor works as a high-side switch.

Why did they do this? By tying MT1 to MCU’s VCC, the Gate is always pulled negative to MT1 when active. This forces the triac to operate in Q2 and Q3, both high-sensitivity quadrants. The MCU only needs to sink (and never source) current, which is ideal for older MCUs with weak GPIO capability, including open-drain-only outputs. In addition, GPIOs default to high or Hi-Z at power-on, keeping valves safely off. Finally, as the MCU consumes very little current, a linear regulator is acceptable.

The Downside: Setting VCC as voltage reference results in a negative GND voltage, which can be unintuitive and confusing. Extending the system with sensors and additional hardware (which often assume standard GND) is harder.


Design Choice B: MT1 Tied to GND

Modern smart controllers typically use a standard “Common Ground” topology:

  • The triac’s MT1 is tied to MCU’s GND, much like the NPN transistor’s emitter is tied to GND.
  • Active HIGH Logic: MCU pulls the Gate High to turn it on.
  • The power circuitry uses a standard positive voltage switching regulator.

Why do they do this? Positive voltage switching regulators are more common and cheaper to source than the negative voltage counterparts, especially when a high input voltage rating (>50V) is required. Also, using GND as voltage reference is easier to understand, debug, and extend. 

The Downside: With MT1 grounded, the triac operates in Q1 and Q4. While Q1 is easy to drive, Q4 is the least sensitive quadrant. This is why modern designs almost universally use sensitive-gate triacs such as MAC97 (THT) or Z0103MN (SMD), with Q4 IGT ≤ 7 mA.

When higher-power-rating triacs are needed, you have to watch out for the Q4: if the GPIO cannot provide sufficient IGT in Q4 (in fact, some snubberless triacs don’t support Q4 operation at all), the triac would simply not conduct in half of the AC cycles, resulting in unreliable valve activation and audible noise.


Gate Resistor Selection

To drive a triac directly from a MCU, a gate resistor is required to limit current. The resistor must be small enough to guarantee sufficient IGT in Q4, but large enough to avoid unnecessary power waste or exceeding the MCU GPIO’s current limit.

Assume VCC = 3.3 V, triac’s Q4 IGT = 7 mA (max), Gate forward voltage = 1.5 V (worst-case), we have: RG = (3.3 V – 1.5 V) / 7 mA = 257 Ω.
In practice, values in the 220-330 Ω range should work well.

Using Shift Registers or IO Expanders: When controlling many zones, GPIOs can quickly run out. In this case, adding a shift register (e.g., 74HC595) or I2C I/O expanders (e.g., PCA9535) is a common solution. But be careful: these devices may have much weaker current sourcing capabilitythan GPIOs. Voltage drop under load must be considered, and gate resistors may need to be reduced accordingly. If the required IGT cannot be met, an external transistor gate driver may be necessary.

One additional note: if the I/O expander outputs are pulled high at power-on, it will be necessary to add a strong gate pull-down resistor (e.g., 10 kΩ) to keep the gate LOW at power-on. Otherwise, you will notice the sprinkler solenoids momentarily pop up at power-on, which is undesirable.


Verify Gate Current Using an Oscilloscope

The calculation of gate current above assumes a static measurement, but since the triac is controlling an AC load, the forward-on voltage and gate current are both dynamic. Therefore I decided to take measurements using an oscilloscope to make sure the triac is reliably switched on.

To do so, I made a simple prototype circuit consisting of a 24 VAC to 3.3 VDC switching regulator, a MAC97 Triac, an adjustable gate resistor (100~1100 Ω), a 1 Ω shunt resistor for measuring load current, and a terminal block to hook up a 24 VAC solenoid. Below is a simplified schematic and the actual photo of it.

I hooked up a 4-channel oscilloscope to test points A, B, C, D respectively: A and B are the Gate voltages before and after the fixed 100 Ω resistor; C and D are Load voltages before and after shunt resistor RL. Therefore (VA-VB) / 100 is the gate current, and (VC-VD) / 1 is the load current.

By varying the potentiometer from low to high, I found the point at which the load current starts to miss half of the AC cycles, indicating the triac was still firing in Q1 but failing in Q4. Below are the measurement screenshots. Channels A, B, C, D are displayed in Yellow, Cyan, Purple, and Blue respectively.


When RG = 270 Ω:

All channels (RG = 270 Ω)
Channels A, B, and (A-B) displayed in violet

We can see that (A-B) varies between (1.8-0.88) = 0.92 V and (0.8-(-0.64))=1.44 V, corresponding to 9.2~14.4 mA gate current. This is well above the required trigger current, therefore the triac is fully on.

The “Negative Voltage” Anomaly. You might notice in the screenshots that the Gate voltage VB is negative in some regions, even though the MCU is continuously holding the gate signal High (thus current is flowing into the Gate). At first glance, I was greatly puzzled by this, as it seems to suggest a region of “negative resistance”.

This effect is not caused by the inductive nature of the load—repeating the experiment with a purely resistive load still shows the same negative VB​ behavior. This suggests that the phenomenon is possibly related to the triac’s internal behavior in Q4. Since MT1 serves as the “Ground” reference, when a large current surge flows out of MT1, it can momentarily make the Gate appear negative relative to MT1 (even though current continues to flow into the Gate). Interestingly, as this negative VB happens to occur in Q4 (when current flows from MT1 to MT2), it effectively increases the voltage potential VAB across the Gate resistor, thus it actually helps keep the triac triggered in Q4.

The screenshot below show the direct measurement of VCD. The peak voltage is 0.37 V, corresponding to 260 mA RMS current. This is consistent with the typical holding current of a 24 VAC solenoid.

Direct measurement of VCD (RG = 270 Ω)

When RG = 390 Ω:

All channels (RG = 390 Ω)

With a larger gate resistor, (A-B) now varies between (1.52-0.84) = 0.68 V and (0.2-(-0.92))=1.12 V, corresponding to a gate current of 6.8~11.2 mA. The triac is still solidly on.


When RG = 920 Ω:

All channels (RG = 920 Ω)

This is where things start to collapse. The gate current drops to only about 2.6~2.7 mA. While the triac is still triggering in Q1, it fails in Q4. Consequently, the load current starts to miss half of the AC cycles, clearly visible in the VCD waveform below. The solenoid also begins to make a loud buzzing noise.

Direct measurement of VCD (RG = 920 Ω)

Additional Considerations

There are some additional considerations I omitted above. These are less of a concern for sprinkler controllers, as they run on low voltage (24VAC), but can be important when using triacs to switch general AC loads that are high-voltage and/or high-current.

1. Latching vs. Holding Current Triac’s datasheets distinguish between Latching Current (minimum MT2-MT1 current required to turn the triac on) and Holding Current (required to stay on). With inductive loads like solenoids, current lags voltage. If you were using short pulses to trigger the triac, the pulse might end before the current rises high enough to latch, causing the triac to fail. In our design, however, this distinction is largely irrelevant because the Gate is held active continuously. The triac is retriggered every half-cycle, so precise latching timing is not critical.

2. Critical dV/dt and False Triggering “dV/dt” refers to how fast the voltage across the triac changes. If voltage spikes too fast, the triac can trick itself into turning on without a Gate signal. This can be a major concern when switching a high-voltage load, such as 110 V or 220 V. In our case, however, 24 VAC is a relatively low voltage, thus the risk of false triggering is low. 

3. Snubbers and MOVs / TVS Diodes Sprinkler wires run underground and outdoors, making them giant antennas for lightning and static induction.

  • MOVs or TVS Diodes: It is recommended to place an MOV or TVS diode across the 24 VAC input terminals. This acts as a surge protector, clamping high-voltage spikes before they blow up your triac or even MCU.
  • Snubber: RC snubbers are optional but can further reduce stress on the triac.

Summary

Triacs are a great choice for switching 24 VAC sprinkler solenoids: they are cheap, compact, and have no moving parts for long-term reliability. With careful attention to quadrant operation, gate current, and power architecture, a triac can be driven directly from a microcontroller without opto-isolation or external drivers.

Design Checklist

  • Use a sensitive-gate triac with low Q4 trigger current requirement
  • The MT1-to-GND design is generally preferred for WiFi-enabled designs due to switching regulator availability.
  • Choose gate resistors based on worst-case Q4 IGT, and account for under-load voltage drop if using shift registers or I/O expanders.
  • Add MOV/TVS protection and snubber per triac.

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